Written by London Swaminathan
Post No. 15,875
Date uploaded in London –15 June 2026
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The dress and ornaments used by the women in Kalidas’s time were unrivalled in their simplicity, elegance and effectiveness. He used the rings to give surprises and twists in his dramas. He used the following ornaments,
Nupura- anklet; nuupura
Mekala or Kanchi or Rasna -girdle; waistband; mekalaa, kaanchi, rasnaa .
Valaya – bracelet;
Kankana – bracelet;
Keyura or Angadha – armlet;
Karnapura or Kundala Thadanga – ear ornaments; ear stud or earring; karnapoora, kundela, thaadanga;
Cudamani- ornament for the middle of the head; cuudaamani;
Mudrika- rings ; Aṅgulīyaka अङ्गुलीयक A finger-ring
Pictures of Gem stones found in Excavations in Sri Lanka
Following are some references where Kalidasa used ornaments –
Raghuvamsa – 8-63; 13-23; 8-58; 8-64; 9-37; 10-8; 11-17; 15-1; 16-65; 13-21; 16-56; 14-19; 15-77;16-74;
Vikramorvasiya – -3-15; 4-52;
Malavikagnimitra- -3-17;4-3; 3-20; 4-4; 6-24;
Rtusamhara- – 4-4; 3-20; 1-5; 3-20; 6-6; 4-3; 2-24;3-19; 2-19;
Kumarasambhava – 1-37; 3-55; 4-85-10; 7-618-14; 8-83; 7-69;7-35; 6-84;
Meghaduta –1-28; 1-35; 1-31; 1-69;2-9;
Sakuntala –3-10; 1-13; 5-13;
There is no reference to nose ring; but brahmins and tribes in the hills are wearing it until this day.
Details of the jewels
In the plot of Sakuntala drama, the ring figures very conspicuously. So also, in Malavikagnimitra , the sarpamudrika, the serpent shaped ring, plays an important part .
Some of the above mentioned ornaments were worn both by men and women. Ancient statues of Gods and Goddesses, men and women show jewels worn on every part of the body. 2000 year old Sangam Tamil literature also confirms it.
Sanskrit words like Kinkini, Nupura, Mani, Kanchi, Mekhala are used in 2000-year-old Tamil Sangam Literature
***
Amarakosha, the oldest dictionary of synonyms in the world, give details of Hindu ornaments:
The Amarakosha, the ancient Sanskrit thesaurus by Amarasimha, catalogues a wide variety of traditional ornaments (ābharaṇa/alaṅkāra). It classifies these jewels comprehensively by the body part they adorn, providing the foundational vocabulary for Indian jewellery.
Specific ornaments mentioned in the Amarakosha include:
1. Head and Ear Ornaments (śīrṣa-ābharaṇa)
• Mukuṭa: A crown or diadem.
• Cūḍāmaṇi: A jewel worn on the crest of the head or hair.
• Kundala: Earrings.
2. Neck and Chest Ornaments (kaṇṭha-ābharaṇa)
• Hāra: A prominent chain or necklace made of pearls.
• Niṣka: A necklace made of gold coins.
• Graiveyaka: A torque or collar necklace worn close to the neck (also known traditionally as kanthi).
• Tarala: A central pendant on a necklace.
3. Arm and Hand Ornaments (hasta-ābharaṇa)
• Keyūra and Aṅgada: Armlets worn on the upper arm.
• Valaya: Bracelets or bangles.
• Kaṭaka: Rings or bracelets often having a round crest shape. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
4. Waist and Hip Ornaments (kaṭi-ābharaṇa)
The Amarakosha distinguishes several types of ornamented waist belts: [1]
• Mekhalā: The primary term for a jeweled girdle.
• Kāñcī: A specific type of waist girdle.
• Raśanā: A multi-stringed or multi-beaded waist ornament.
• Sārasana: Another variant of a decorated waist belt. [1, 2, 3]
5. Ankle Ornaments
• Nūpura: Ankle ornaments or anklets.
Head & Hair Ornaments
• Chūḍāmaṇi: A prominent crest jewel or diadem worn on the top of the head, often used as a key plot point or status symbol.
• Ratnajāla / Muktajāla: Nets or networks of pearls and gems used to adorn and veil the hair. [1, 2, 3]
Ear Ornaments
• Kuṇḍalas: Large earrings often crafted in specific designs, such as the Makara-kuṇḍala (shaped like a mythical sea creature) or the Ratna-kuṇḍala (gem-encrusted). [1]
Neck & Chest Ornaments
• Kaṇṭhīkā / Kaṇṭhīhāra: Traditional, tightly fitting chokers and necklaces.
• Ekāvalī: A single-string pearl necklace.
• Muktāvalī: A classic, multi-strand pearl necklace. [1, 2]
Arm & Wrist Ornaments
• Aṅguliya / Ratna-aṅgulīyam: Gem-studded rings, most famously the signet ring given by King Dushyanta to Shakuntala.
• Kankaṇa: Bangles and bracelets worn on the wrists. [1, 2]
Waist & Hip Ornaments
• Mekhalā: Elaborate beaded or multi-stranded hip belts and girdles.
• Raśanā: A multi-stringed (often 16-strand) beaded waist chain.
• Kāñcī: A single-strand hip girdle. [1]
Ankle Ornaments
• Nūpura / Mañjīra: Ornate, often heavy anklets.
• Kiṅkiṇī: Tinkling anklets adorned with small bells, typically worn by dancers.
***
My old articles on this topic are also attached herewith:
Three wivws of most celebrated Madurai Nayak King Tirumalai Nayak.
Four Gold Rings in Ramayana and Kalidasa’s Works
Research paper written by London Swaminathan
Research article No.1520; Dated 26th December 2014.
Gold Rings play an important part in Valmiki Ramayana and three of Kalidasa’s works in addition to Vishaka Datta’s Mudra Rakshasa.
Valmiki, the great Adi Kavi, inspired Kalidasa and Vishaka datta. All these are Sanskrit works. In Sangam Tamil literature we have one reference to a gold ring with shark picture on it. Such rings are found in Rome and Greece. Apart from their literary merits, there are lot of things for researchers.
1.Gold rings were used as seals. They were like government seals and emblems.
2.Gold rings have personal names inscribed on it. Rama’s name was there on his ring. Dushyanata’s name was inscribed on it.
3.Sita was able to recognise the letters RAMA and Shakuntala was able to read the letters. So women were literates and highly educated. Kalidasa tells us how many letters were in Dushyanta’s name and asked Shakuntala to count them so that she would know many days she had to wait.
Tiberius ring
4.Tamil had rings with shark picture on them. They might have been imported from Rome. Roman gold coins are found in nook corner of Tamil Nadu and the vaults of Ananta Padmanabha Swami Temple of Tiruvanathapuram, Kerala.
5.Kalidasa gives information about gem studded rings (Ratna Angukiyam) in Raghu Vamsa (6-18, 12-62, 12-65). In the Sakuntalam, he mentioned about giving engagement rings. Now it has become a big custom and big business in Western countries. Actually Hindus taught the world about giving Engagement Rings. Giving flowers is in Tamil literature.
6.Kalidasa also gives information about ring with a snake picture on it in his drama Malavika Agnimitram.
7.In Kalidasa’s Abinjana Sakuntalam and in Vishaka Datta’s Mudra Rakshasa, the ring plays an important part. Sanskrit scholar Chandra Rajan compared it with Shakespeare’s Othello (hand kerchief instead of ring in Othello).
Snake ring
8. Tamil Poet Maruthan Ilanakan used (Kali- 84) the ring in his Kalitokai verse. It is a gold ring given by a prostitute to the hero. It shows that prostitutes were very rich and they may even give rings to their customers if they fall in love with them. In other parts of the world, it is other way round; they only received, never donated.
9.Since Tamil ring has a Makara/shark, Romans might have brought them. Sailors used to visit prostitutes the counties they visit and the VD or STD are called Sailor’s diseases. But the heroine actually said that it was Manmatha’s flag emblem, meaning that the prostitute wanted to rule over his heart for ever. Manamatha is God of Love.
10.in Mudra Rakshasa, it is the signet ring of a minister. So, all the top government officials used their rings as signatures. Each one must have a different picture or personal name on it.
11.It is unfortunate that we have such rings only in the vaults of Maharajas now, which slowly find their way to auction houses in London and New York.
12.When I visited Stockholm I was able to see all the jewellery in the museums. In my city London, people queue to see the Royal jewellery including India’s Kohinoor diamond. I paid to enter Metropolitan Museum in New York. India can mint money by displaying her treasures properly. Government should set up a panel for this purpose with historians and archaeologists.
13.Indian government must ban legal or illegal “export” of all Indian jewellery to foreign auction houses. They must also make arrangements to display all the jewellery of temples such as Tirupati, Tiruvananthapuram and palaces of Maharajas. There are many more hidden gems lying in the dark rooms of India. I have written about our treasures in Tehran museum.
(Please Read my articles on “India needs an Indian Jones” and the Diamond studded Rs 1000 crore Globe in Tehran Museum)
Gold Ring in Valmiki Ramayana (Sundara Kanda, Canto 36)
Sangam Tamil book Purananuru says that the monkeys did not know how to wear Sita’s jewellery! Sita threw them down from Ravana’s air plane. Hanuman took Sita’s jewellery back to Rama . Hanuman won Sita’s confidence when he gave her Rama’s ring. When she saw the ring with Rama’s name on it she believed that Hanuman was a real messenger from Lord Rama.
Here is the verse from Sundara Kanda
“O, Fortunate One, I am a monkey, the messenger of the sagacious Rama; behold this precious ring on which his name is engraved! O, Goddess, it was given to me by that magnanimous hero so that thou shouldst have faith in me”
“Janaki taking the jewel that had adorned her lord, was overcome with joy, as if he himself were present her gentle countenance with its large eyes sparkle with delight resembling the moon released from Rahu’s hold. Blushing with pleasure on receiving this token from her lord, that youthful woman, in her satisfaction, began to look on that great monkey as on a friend and paid tribute to him”.
From The Ramayana of Valmiki, Volume II, Translated by Hari Prasad Shastri
Here is the Gold Ring from Abhinjana sakuntalam:-
King : Then putting the ring on her finger, I said to her;
Madhavya: What did you say?
King: Count off each day one letter of my name
On the Ring; and when you come to the last,
An escort will present himself, my love,
To lead you to my Royal Apartments.
But in blank confusion I acted cruelly.
Mitrakesi: A charming arrangement, no doubt; only fate slipped in and broke it
Madhavya: How on earth did the ring enter the (fish) carp’s mouth as if it were a hook?
King: It slipped off your friend’s finger when she was worshipping the waters at Sasi’s pool (Soma Tirtha).
Act 6 of Sakuntalam (Chandra Rajan’s Translation in “Kalidasa-The Loom of Time”).
Chandra Rajan compared it with Othello of Shakespeare:
“In Othello, proof of the heroine’s chastity and love is demanded. Desdemona’s chastity hangs on a hand kerchief; Sakuntala’s on a ring. Both heroines are blissfully unaware of the importance of the token. To them love is its own proof and a witness to their charity”
Snake ring in Malavikagnimitram
Act 4 of Malavikagnimitram says that the queen parted with her signet ring bearing a serpent seal, as it was required by the poison-doctor to effect a magical cure. He thus procures the freedom of Malavika.
Mudra Rakshasa
The meaning of the drama is “The Signet Ring of Rakshasa”, the Chief Minister of last Nanda King. Chanakya, installed Chandragupta Maurya as king, and dethroned the last Nanda king. Nanda king’s chief minister Rakshasa was made to switch sides through the clever plans of Chanakya.
***
GEM STONES IN KALIDASA & TAMIL LITERATURE
From my blogs dated 13-2-2012
(This is the third part of my thesis to prove that the age of Kalidasa is around 1st century B.C. Please read other two parts as well-S .Swaminathan)
A country’s wealth is reflected in its literature. If the poets always sing about poverty and begging bowl we know that the general public suffered and starved. If the poets sing about gold and gems and enormous wealth and donation it means that the country was wealthy. Kalidasa,the greatest of the Indian secular poets, sings about gold and gems though out his seven books. As a matter of fact he himself was considered one of the Nine Gems (Nava Ratnas) in the court of Vikramaditya who started his own era in 56 BC.
Kalidasa’s praise of Himalayan gems is sung by Sangam poets as well. Sangam poets who lived hundred or two hundred years after Kalidasa might have got the information from his works. If this is the only similarity then we can ignore it as coincidence. But I have identified 225 similes between Kalidasa and Tamil Sangam literature which proves that Kalidasa lived around 1st century BC or before the Sangam period.
Tamil kings were very rich. Tamil literature refers to thrones and cots made up of ivory and gold. The chariots were decorated with gold. Even the elephants had big gold plated coverings to its face. Roman ships poured gold in to Tamil Nadu (South India) and took spices in exchange. This was corroborated by Roman writers of first few centuries and discovery of thousands of Roman gold coins though out South India.
Kalidasa uses 16 names for the Himalayas including Kailash and Kubera saila. He is all praise for the Himalayas. He is so excited whenever he describes the mountains.
“There is in the northern quarter, the deity souled Lord of Mountains, by name Himalaya,who stands, like the measuring rod of the earth, spanning the Eatern and Western oceans”. 1-1:Kumarasambhava
“Snow could not be a destroyer of beauty in the case of him who is the source of countless jewels.” 1-3
“Who bears on his peaks, a richness of metals, appearing like an untimely twilight, with its colours reflected upon patches of clouds, and the cause of amorous decking of the heavenly nymphs.” 1-4
In Kumara I-3 and Ragu. II 29, IV 79 he describes the gems available in the Himalayas.
Tamil poets echo it in Puram 218 (Kannakanar) 377 (Ulochanar )Pattina. 190-198 sung by a Brahmin poet Kadiyalur Rudran Kannanar:
“Brought by the cart, gems and gold from the Northern Mountain
Sandal and eagle wood from the hills of Coorg
Pearls from the southern sea, coral from the east
Ganga’s wealth and Kaveri’s produce
Eza’s provisions and Kazhaga’s plenty “(Pattinapalai 193-197)
In addition to these there are hundreds of mention of all types of gem stones and precious metals.
Nagaratna/Cobra Jewel
(Please read my article :How did Shakespeare know Cobra Jewel-the Indian Nagaratna, where in I have explained what is Nagaratna)
We find the following references about the cobra jewel in Tamil and Sanskrit.
Kakaipatini Nachellaiyar ,a poetess of Sangam period says that the the snakes with cobra jewels are dancing in the holy Himalayas like the women possessed by divine spirits in Pathitru Pathu (6-lines 10 to 1)
Hindus believed that the snakes carried luminescent gem stones on their heads. They used them to find their prey. The general theme is that snakes use the light of Nagaratnam (cobra jewel) and if they lose it, snakes become very upset.
Kalidasa in Kumara Sambhavam : 2:38, 5:43, Raghuvamsam 6:49, 10:7, 11:59, 11:68,13:12, 17:63;Rtu Samharam 1:20
Sangam Tamil poets in Aka Nanuru 72, 92, 138, 192, 372; Pura Nanuru 172, 294, 398; Kurunthokai 239; Natrinai 255; Kurinchipattu Lines 221,239
This is not an exhaustive list. We find such references in innumerable places.
Pearl in the Oyster
If the rain falls on Swati star day the oysters open their mouth to drink the rain drops and the rain drops become pearls-This was the belief of ancient Indians including Tamils.
Malavi.1-6: Kalidasa says , ‘the skill of a teacher imparted to a worthy pupil attains greater excellence, as the water of a cloud is turned in to a pearl in a sea shell.In Puram 380 ,Karuvur Kathapillay says the same about the origin of pearls. Bhartruhari makes it more specific by saying the rain on Swati Nakshatra days become pearls. Biologits also confirm on full moon days lot of sea animals like corals release their eggs or spores. So far as India is concerned it might have happened in that particular (Swati star with Moon) season.
Kalidasa gives more similes about pearls. He describes the river that is running circling a mountain as a garland of pearls( Ragu.13-48 and Mega.-49)
Other references from Kalidasa: sweat drops as pearl:Rtu.6-7; tears as pearls: Mega 46, Ragu VI 28,,Vikra V 15; smile-KumarI-44, water drops on lotus leaf:Kumara VII 89
In Tamil the teeth are compared to the pearls: Ainkur. 185, Akam 27
Since Gulf of Mannar is the main source of pearls in India ,thre are innumerable references to pearls in Tamil literature. Even Kautilya refers to the pearls from Pandya country. Korkai was the harbour city where the pearl fishing was flourishing. Aink 185,188, Akam 27,130 and Natri 23mention pearls from Korkai.
Ivory
The pearl recovered from elephant ivory is referred by Kalidasa and other poets:Kumar I-6,Ragu 9-65.This is referred to by several Sangam Tamil poets:Murugu 304, Malaipadu 517, Kali 40-4, Puram 170 (V M Damodaran),Pathitru.32 (K Kappiyanar), Natri. 202 (P P Katunko), Kurinji 36 (Kapilar), Akam 282 (Thol Kapilar).
Pearl from bamboo trees is also sung by a Tamil poet in Akam 173 (Mulliyur Puthiyar).
Ivory throne : Ragu 17-21
Akam 369 gem shield ;Kali 40- ivory pestle; Puram 35 –diamond needle
Hindus’ belief in Gem Stones (Post No.3356)
Compiled by London Swaminathan
Date: 15 November 2016
Time uploaded in London: 9-12 am
Post No.3356
Pictures are taken from various sources; they are representational only; thanks.
contact; swami_48@yahoo.com
Recorded by The Rev. J E Padfield B.D. year 1908 in his book The Hindu at Home.
It is an old world notion that magic properties are attached to certain gems, and this idea has been systematized by the Hindus. It is called “The Test of Precious Stones” (Ratna Pareeksha). But the testing is largely confined, to the luckiness or otherwise of the particular gem and has nothing to do with its intrinsic value, nine kinds of precious stones are enumerated and mention is made of the deity, or planet with which each is connected.
It is stated that the wearer of a particular gem receives the blessing of the patron deity. Thus rubies are the favoured gems of the sun; diamonds of Venus; pearls the moon; emeralds of Budha, the son of the moon. sapphires of Saturn; cat’s eye of the dragon’s tail, or descending node of the moon (Rahu); topaz of Jupiter; coral of the ascending node of the moon (Ketu) and the agate of Mars.
Faulty Gems!
Six kinds of rubies with flaws are enumerated, each of which is said to bring misfortune to the wearer. A ruby, with milky layers enveloping it, is said to bring poverty to the wearer; one with a broken ray in it will cause quarrels and disputes; one chipped will make enmity between relatives; one full of cracks will plunge the wearer into sorrows for ever; one with many flaws will endanger the life of the wearer one rough and dark in colour will be sure to cause evils. It is advisable to avoid either of these six kinds. It is also said that rubies containing two or three round spots are not lucky. It is not advisable to cast one’s eyes upon such a stone on awaking in the morning. It is most lucky to wear good and pure rubies; the sun, their patron, will bless the wearer with wealth and prosperity castes.
diamond
Diamonds are divided into four classes or castes. Those that are pure white are said to be of Brahmin caste, and bestow great benefits upon of wearer. Those that are red, are of the Kshatriya caste, and bestow upon the wearer the power. Those that are yellow are of the Banya caste, and bestow prosperity generally. Those that are black, are of the Sudra caste, and mean ruin to the wearer.
When a diamond contains shining streaks, resembling the feet of a crow, it will cause death of the wearer. If a pure diamond is worn, Venus, its patron, will bless the wearer with the comforts of life.
There are said to be nine places in which pearls are found. In the clouds; this kind said to be oval in shape, and to be worn by the gods. In the of a serpent; these are said to be like small seed, and to have the quality of relieving the wearers from all troubles. In the hollow of a bamboo; these are said to be black in colour, and give the wearer certain attractions. In a fish; these are white in colour, and protect the wearer from danger by fire. In the head of an elephant ; these are yellowish green and should be worn by king. In a sugarcane, this kind is of reddish colour and is said to have the power of causing all , even and queens, to be subjected to be subjected to the will of the wearer. In a conch shell; these are said to be like a dove’s egg, but they cannot be obtained by ordinary men. it requires a knowledge of mantrams, or of magic, to get them. In the tusk of a wild boar; this kind is red in colour, and is in size like the regu fruit (ziziphus jujuba); it will bring fame to the wearer.
pearl
In the pearl oyster; of these there are said to be three kinds, of a reddish, a golden, or a white colour. The moon, the patron of pearls, will bless a wearer of pure pearls with fame and the pleasures of life.
emerald
Emeralds are said to be of eight classes according to their colour. Poisons have no power over those persons who wear a good emerald. It gives protection against the power of the evil eye and develops the mental faculties. Emeralds also have the power of protecting the wearer of one from the designs foes, from sorrows, madness, internal pains, swoon and various diseases of the liver. A sure access to heaven is promised to that one who freely gives emerald to a Brahmin.
sapphire
Sapphires are divided into three classes according to the depth of their colour. There are also six kinds (with flaws) that are said to bring evil to the wearer; such evils as quarrels with relatives, loss of children, hazard to life, certain death within a year. A sapphire is purest when, if placed in milk it gives to the milk a bluish tinge. It is then a true sapphire. A sapphire is said to be electric, when a blade of grass will adhere to it though blown upon. Such a stone is said to bring lustre to the wearer. The Saturn, the patron of sapphires, will bless the wear of a true sapphire with prosperity and immunity from death.
The topaz is described as having a colour like a drop of dew on a flower, and its patron deity, Jupiter will bless the wearer with immense wealth.
Four kinds of coral (with flaws) are enumerated that will cause evil to the wearer, troubles, grief, disease, and death. There are six kinds of good coral mentioned, according to the colour, and the wearer of such is promised the pleasures of life and the accomplishment of his designs.
agate
The blessing of Mars is promised to the wearer of an agate, which blessing ensures wealth and prosperity.
The details given in this chapter, have, I think, served to show how strong the passion for jewels amongst the Hindus.
(My comments: Being a Christian preacher, Rev. Padfield had criticized the Hindus for their beliefs at the end of each chapter; that is why he gave more information about flawed (bad) gems than good gems. I have already written about the good gems mentioned by Kalidasa and Varahamihira (Brhat Samhita). Manu also advise that gems should be worn by the kings (7-218)
–Subham—
Tags- Ornaments in Kalidasa Works, Ancient Hindu Jewellery, You can get Ph.D., part 3
Tamil and Vedas 